If you visit the Netherlands in late November or early December, you will soon notice that the country is preparing for something other than Christmas. Shop windows fill with chocolate letters, bakeries sell bags of small spiced biscuits, and children talk excitedly about a bearded man in a red bishop's robe. This is Sinterklaas, one of the most loved traditions in Dutch culture, and for many families it is the highlight of the winter.
Who Is Sinterklaas?
Sinterklaas is based on Saint Nicholas, a bishop from the fourth century who became known as the patron saint of children, sailors and merchants. In the Dutch version of the story he is an elderly, dignified figure with a long white beard, a red mitre and a golden staff. He carries a large book in which, according to tradition, he keeps track of whether each child has behaved well during the year.
His feast day is 6 December, but in the Netherlands the main celebration takes place on the evening before, 5 December. This evening is called pakjesavond, which simply means "present evening".
The Arrival by Steamboat
The season starts in mid-November, when Sinterklaas is said to arrive by steamboat from Spain. His arrival, known as the intocht, is a big event. A national arrival is broadcast on television, and towns and villages across the country hold their own welcome, with the saint riding through the streets on his white horse. His helpers, the Pieten, hand out sweets and keep the crowds entertained. The way the Pieten are portrayed has been the subject of public debate in recent years, and many celebrations now present them differently than in the past.
From the arrival until 5 December, children may put their shoe by the fireplace or the back door in the evening. They often leave a carrot or some hay for the horse and sing Sinterklaas songs. In the morning they might find a small treat or gift in the shoe.
Sweets and Treats of the Season
Food plays a big part in the festivities. Pepernoten and kruidnoten are small, crunchy biscuits flavoured with spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Chocolate letters are a classic gift, usually in the first letter of the recipient's name. Speculaas, a thin spiced biscuit often pressed into decorative shapes, and marzipan figures are also popular, as is banketstaaf, a pastry filled with almond paste. If you enjoy discovering local flavours, our guide to Dutch food is a good place to continue.
Poems and Surprises
Among older children and adults, Sinterklaas becomes a creative game. Family members or friends draw names and each person makes a gift for someone else. The gift is often wrapped in a "surprise", a handmade disguise that might be a papier-mâché object linked to the receiver's hobbies or habits. Each gift comes with a rhyming poem, signed by Sinterklaas, which gently teases the receiver about their quirks of the past year. Reading the poems aloud is part of the fun, and a good poem can be remembered for years.
Experiencing Sinterklaas as a Visitor
For travellers, the weeks from mid-November to early December are a charming time to visit. Many towns hold an arrival parade on a weekend in November, and local tourist offices usually share the details. Even without joining a parade, you can enjoy the atmosphere in shops and markets, try the seasonal biscuits and see how the country slowly turns from Sinterklaas to Christmas once 5 December has passed. You can read more about what each time of year offers in our article on the four seasons of Netherlands tourism.
Sinterklaas is more than a children's festival. It is a tradition that brings families together, encourages a sense of humour and fills the darkest weeks of the year with light and sweetness. If your trip falls in this season, take the chance to see it for yourself.
